So my next project is New Look pattern 6013, which I bought in Lancaster earlier this year. I've previously blogged about my choice of Liberty Fabric for this project in April's post, 'Liberty Loveliness'. I've settled on view A which I think will make a lovely casual jacket and get me out of my trusted Ted Baker woollen cardigan, which admittedly has seen better days!
As far as pattern pieces go, I'm beginning to be a bit more organised with them. Once I've cut them out of the fashion fabric I've started to organise the fabric pieces on the table with their corresponding tissue piece on top so that it's easy to identify the different pieces.
This pattern calls for a lightweight fusible interfacing. However, since discussing the construction techniques with my dress making teacher, we decided on a combination of medium and lightweight woven interfacing.
I bought my woven interfacing from http://www.jaycotts.co.uk/. This was my fist purchase from the website and considering woven interfacing is not cheap, I was unimpressed to find that the lightwight one had the selvage cut off on one side and the medium one had no selvage on either side! So to try and get the grain line straight was a very difficult task. Be warned if you buy these products from Jaycotts, I certainly won't be doing so again!
So this is what I cut for each of the numbered pattern pieces:
- 2 in lightweight (for jacket); 2 in medium (for facing);
- Medium for: 6.5cm deep, from 2.5cm above hem; piece to support welts; above line (near underarm);
- Medium for: 6.5cm deep, from 2.5cm above hem and upper back;
- Medim for: 6.5cm deep, from 2.5cm above hem and upper back;
- 1 in medium (as undercollar); 1 in lightweight (as collar);
- 2 in medium;
- Medium for 6.5cm deep, from 1inch above hem.
When I first read the pattern instructions I found myself disappointed that the jacket wasn't lined. My dress making teacher has since told me that we can line the jacket quite easily. She advised me to cut pattern pieces 2 (side front); 4 (side back), 3 (back) and 8 (sleeve) from my contrasting lining fabric. For piece 3, I placed the pattern piece 2.5cm from the fold of the fabric. This will prevent the back lining from ripping as it will be 2.5cm wider that the back piece of the jacket.
There was no need to cut piece 1 (front) or 5 (collar) as both have a facing in the fashion fabric. And for obvious reasons pieces 6 (loop) and 7 (welt) do not need to be lined.