Liberty print jacket - Part 4

Well I've been a little quite on the blog so far this year, the reason being that my Liberty print jacket has been taking up most of my time.  If you have read my previous posts about this item, you will know that I have been adapting New Look pattern 6013 (view A), to make a lined casual jacket.  

Yesterday I finally finished the jacket, which has taken over 3 months to complete.  Before its grand unveiling, I thought I would share the new techniques I have learnt.  Most recently in my post 'Liberty print jacket - Part 3', I shared my attempts at making shoulder pads.  I then moved on to follow the pattern instructions for inserting the sleeves into the jacket, which brought me round to attaching the shoulder pads to the sleeve seam.  I did this using a small running stitch just inside the seam.  I worked the stitches from the sleeve side (i.e. the shoulder pad can't really be seen), so as to make sure I remained inside the seam allowance. 

I then used a swing tack to secure the curve of the neck edge of the shoulder pad to the shoulder seam.  If you haven't heard of a swing tack before, you will recognise it from some of your own clothes, here is an example:

This is a long swing tack on one of my dresses - it is securing the lining to the dress near the hem

Here is how to create the swing tack:

• Use double double thread (take a very long thread and thread the loop through the eye and fold in half);
• Secure the thread with 3 horizontal stitches on the shoulder pad, approximately 2cm from the centre of the curve of the neck edge;
• On the 3rd stitch, catch the loop and place your thumb and index finger of your left in the loop;
• Holding the needle with your right hand, use your left hand to go through the loop and pull the thread through the loop;
• Now pull the thread and it will form a small chain stitch;
• Continue until the swing tack is approximately 2cm long;
• Secure by putting the needle and thread through the loop in your left hand;
• Then stitch the tack to the jacket underneath the original securing stitches. 

Now onto the other techniques which have brought this jacket together...

After I inserted the shoulder pads I made rolls to insert into the top of the sleeves.  I used a lightweight piece of wadding, approximately 30cm long.  I folded it in half, and using the fold as a straight line, I drew a curve shape extending 6cm at its peak.  I cut along the curve and then along the fold, so that I had two identical pieces.  

I attached the roll to the sleeve of the jacket, so that a sandwich is created with shoulder pad on top, the seam allowance (where the jacket and sleeve are attached) in the middle, and then the roll on the underside of the sleeve.  I pinned the roll into the sleeve with the straight length of wadding to the sleeve seam, so that the curved edge goes into the sleeve itself and then I secured with a running stitch.

Next I used a herringbone stitch to secure the hem of the sleeves and the jacket.  I swing tacked the lining to the jacket at the side seams and shoulder seams before securing the lining at the hem of the sleeves and jacket by using a curtain hem.  To achieve a curtain hem, firstly trim the raw edges of the lining fabric, so that they are 1.5cm longer than the hem of the jacket and the hem of the sleeves.  The next step is to fold the lining under by 1.5cm and slip stitching the folded edge into place, 1.5cm from the raw edge of the fashion fabric.

This shows the lining slip stitched into place, as per the above diagram

And perhaps the simplest finishing touch was to secure the button using a complementary metallic thread.

And to keep a grip on costs, here is the breakdown:

Liberty Fabric	2.75m at £5 per metre	£13.75
Lining Fabric	1.25m at £2.55 per metre	£2.81
Lightweight fusible interfacing	0.75m at £7.78 per metre	£5.83
Medium weight fusible interfacing	1.25m at £6.46 per metre	£8.07
Medium weight sew-in interfacing	0.25m at £3.43 per metre	£0.86
Button	£0.90 per button	£0.90
TOTAL		£32.22

Not too costly I would say!