Summer Ramie blouse

My latest dressmaking venture is one inspired by holidays and the beaches of Vietnam where I will be spending many hours this summer.

I've picked a simple cropped blouse which I've made using Ramie fabric from the Organic Textile Company.

I had no idea what Ramie is but after a little research it seems to be made from nettles!  It feels just like linen and creases like cotton, but not quite as bad. It's the first time I've worked with it and I've never worn it before but it feels very durable when I tried it on.






The pattern is from an old edition of Burda, although it's beginning to feel a little less old now I've started a cross stitch pattern from a 2006 copy of Cross Stitcher!

It's a simple design with a simple set of instructions to match so I chose simple things in the construction like matching thread and pale buttons.  The look I was going for was seamless and I think it's quite effective for a casual throw on beach blouse.




This was also my first attempt at proper button holes.  And by that I mean ones that I have to position properly and sew straight for the blouse to look half decent (so not just a single one on a bag!)  I'm very pleased with them but next time I won't be too risk adverse with allowing for the depth of the button; they're a tiny bit too wide!



















It might be nice to try creating a more striking look with some contrasting thread and buttons.  That can be my last minute holiday project!  But for now I've made a start on the holiday wardrobe...only two months to go!

Finished collar

Collar construction

Nha Trang beach, Vietnam - not long to wait now!

Easter Sunday 2016

Happy Easter!

This bank holiday weekend I've been busy making spring inspired Daffodils in gorgeous cotton yarn.  I went on to make a wreath to display them on, together with primroses and mini flowers.  I'm delighted with it; it's bringing a little bit of light to this damp Easter Sunday!

For those of you who have seen my Facebook posts you'll know that I've just finished a four week learn to crochet course at Stitch studio in Ramsbottom.  I turned up for the non-existent week five because my tutor Sharon was running a one-off two hour workshop on how to create these Daffodils.  By the end of the session I'd made one and, true to form, I stayed up until the early hours of the morning making more!

To make the wreath I used double crochet stitch around the outer hoop of an embroidery frame and then made chain spaces which I slip stitched to the double crochet.  For the inner hoop I used bias binding on the diagonal and wrapped it round tightly, overlapping it the width of the folded under edge.   

If you're inspired to have a go yourself then the pattern can be yours for a mere £1.50.  Visit my tutor Sharon's new website store Cotton Pod and download it here or buy a kit here.  You can have fun experiment with different sized crochet hooks to watch flowers appear in beautiful spring shades.

Oh, and I can't go without showing you what else I made this Easter.  I've had three so far today...!

Happy Easter from me and this little one

Mother's Day 2016

Happy Mother's Day!

I knew I wouldn't get to keep this project when my mum caught a glimpse of it.  So this is what I gave her, a handmade sewing bag.

It's made up of 22 Japanese folded patchwork blocks; I've used three complimentary black fabrics for the outer circles and four different pink fabrics for the inner squares.  I've finished the bag with handles made from one fat quarter which repeats different square patterns.

I love the shape of this bag and it's a great size for carrying some wool or other light sewing bits.  I followed a pattern I bought from the Knitting and Stitching Show in Harrogate (several years ago now) and it took me over 40 finger numbing hours to complete.  The only machine sewing was in making the handles and securing them to the bag (I've used the big buttons to cover this stitching).  

For a first attempt at this technique I am quite impressed with the end result, and my mum really loves her present.  I learnt some new skills, like how to use rotary cutters, and resurrected some old hand sewing skills.  The reason I picked this project to do now is to practice cutting fabric for a patchwork quilt which is my main soft furnishings project for this year.  And it's already underway!

For anyone wanting to have a go at some Japanese patchwork, I found a good blog here which has a step by step process of how to make these blocks.  You could sew them up however you like, to make whatever it is you want!  I've you're going to make anything that should have some strength then simply use a thin layer of wadding underneath each square like I did here.  And use a good thimble for putting your blocks together!

Silk Satin dress - Part 1 (the toile)

Tartan wasn't quite tricky enough, so roll on the silk!  Literally.  The stuff won't stop moving.  Any tips for keeping it still?  Is spray starch any good for this?

Before I hack the silk though I'm making a toile out of a polyester silky satin to check that the finished dress will fit.  Thank you Auntie Moira for the lovely fabric!  Do you like what I've done with it?



























The bodice
I started by tacking stay tape to the shoulder seams of the front and back pieces (centering the tape over the stitching line of the fabric) and ironing (after tacking) bias vilene tape to the armhole and neck edges of the front and back pieces (this time placing the stitching, which is on the tape, on the stitching line of the fabric).

The bodice is worked by attaching the front bodice to the front bodice lining and the same for the back bodice.  Then you put one inside the other and join the shoulder seams of the dress together and then the same for the lining shoulder seams.  Finish by pressing the shoulder seams open and turning it all right side out.  

The skirt
The skirt is very simple to make; simply sew the front and back pieces together at the side seams and then tack the lining to the skirt by putting it inside the skirt, wrong sides together.

The only difficulty I had is with the fabric stretching slightly as it is cut on the bias.  I'm hoping my silk will be a bit more robust and I'll have to make sure I handle it a bit more carefully.

Attaching the two  
Next was attaching the front pieces of the bodice and skirt.  Again this was very simple and I sewed the seam allowance down (using top stitching) to create a channel which I fed my elastic through.

Finishing the back
The back pieces of the bodice and skirt do not get attached together as there is a nice opening there instead.  I applied a facing to the opening which I turned through to the wrong side and secured.  I then made two rouleau tubes and attached each one to either end of a piece of elastic which I threaded through the channel.

Hemming the dress
I used a rolled hem on my overlocker to finish both the dress and lining hems.  This is the first time I've done a rolled hem and I really like the scalloped effect it creates on this fabric.

And best of all the dress fits well so I can go ahead with making it in silk in time for the Summer.
























Cost

Item

Supplier

Quantity

£

Floral silk satin	My auntie!	free	0
White silk satin lining	http://www.abakhan.co.uk/silky-satin-1-white-145cm.html	2m @ £4.55 per metre	9.1
Thread	http://www.abakhan.co.uk/	2 @ £1.55 each	3.1
		TOTAL	12.2

Knitting and Stitching Show, Harrogate 2015

'Rose' from http://www.sewladidavintage.com

'Margo' from http://www.sewladidavintage.com

What can I say...I'm £150 lighter!

This year's Knitting and Stitching Show in Harrogate was the best its been for years.  For the first time there was a real dressmaking presence; new exhibitors showed off patterns designed and made in the UK and there was ample variety of quality dressmaking materials from the UK and beyond.

I'm excited to try out two new patterns I bought from Sew La Di Da.












Despite feeling Merchant and Mill's absence greatly (their stall is always full of delights), I did manage to get my hands on one of their patterns from Emma Garry. From another exhibitor I picked up a lovely fine wool for the discounted price of £14 a metre which is very similar to that used on the pattern envelope except it has undertones of dark brown rather than black. 


For the first time at the show I attended a workshop; mine was on how to Crochet a granny square.  I paid £20 and walked away with a complete and slightly/very messy granny square, a full ball of wool and a crochet hook so I can practice practice practice.   

The class was well run despite a leak at the venue which caused the teacher's handouts to disintegrate. One thing that was lacking from the show was any pre-show communication about what supplies would be provided or even if attendees were required to bring anything with them to the workshop in order to fully participate.  So I was quite relieved that my pen and paper was enough and I didn't have to go on a mad dash around the show for some wool in order to be able to complete my granny square!  

The most rewarding part of the workshop was seeing the treble stitches come to life; I recognise them not from books but from the several crochet blankets, aged 30+ years which my grandma made for me and which never leave my bed.   I'd love to be able to progress and make a granny square blanket to pass down through my family (alongside my grandma's ones of course)!

I'd highly recommend the workshops at the show as they add an extra element to the day and allow you to speak with other people who have similar sewing interests.  They're also a great way to try a new method of stitching before committing to buying all of the supplies and, of course, it's almost always easier to learn a new skill first hand from live demonstrations.  

So now I've had an enjoyable two hour taster I've enrolled onto a beginners crochet course in my favourite town of Ramsbottom at Stitch.   It starts in February 2016 and after that I think the granny squares will be under construction!

Stitch in Ramsbottom run a wide variety of
dressmaking and sewing courses

This is the aim...!

What else did I get up to at the show?  Well, I spent a lot of time selecting fat quarters for my next sewing adventure...quilting.  

I was given a copy of the book Fast Quilts from Fat Quarters several years ago and I've been wanting to make one of its appealing quilts for some time.  I've finally settled on one which is the size of a double bed and which has a lovely visual symmetry.

I've also collected several patchwork and quilting books over the years so I feel prepared for the new challenge.  So much so that I spent a day of flexi leave from work hand washing and ironing 14 fat quarters and 3 metres of white fabric!  

This is what I'm aiming to make but in a white, purple and green colour scheme (you can see the fabrics I'll be using in the final photograph):

I think, as usual, I've bought and invested in more than enough to last me until way beyond next year's show.  But that's all part of the fun!  I hope everyone else who went found some new and exciting projects to work on!

My purchases from Harrogate 2015