Lined curtains - Part 1

Over Easter time, when re-enrolling on my dressmaking course for the Summer term, I decided to look for a soft furnishings class.  I haven't been able to find any curtains to go in my redecorated room since it was completed a year ago.  I'm not a fan of my blinds so I was pleased to find a weekly soft furnishings and re upholstery course at my local library which is run by Bury Adult Learning.

The tutor got me started straight away on a sample fabric as if it was a curtain.  I am making lined curtains so I started on my sample with mitring the corners which are secured using ladder stitch.  A blind hem stitch secures the hem and a herringbone stitch secures the side hems.

The next session was all about my material.  I had measured my windows (I'm making two pairs of curtains), and added the following allowances to calculate how much fabric to buy:

1. Added 15cm to top, bottom and both sides (this will be how much the curtains overlap the windows)
2. Added 25cm to the length and doubled the width (the addition to the length is for the seams and the addition to the width is for the curtain gathers).

I opted for a fabric from Clarke and Clarke's Quantum range called Oberon in Duck Egg (http://www.clarke-clarke.co.uk/collection.php?hdnCollectionID=47).  It is standard width, 138cm and, luckily for me, I only needed two widths to make each pair of curtains. This meant that I had to add the pattern repeat, 14cm, four times for the four cuts I would be making,  This brought my total fabric requirement to 11m.

I was really impressed with the customer service from the-millshop-online (http://www.the-millshop-online.co.uk/curtain-upholstery-fabric-clarke-clarke-oberon-red-polycotton-1.html) which provided a free sample and dealt efficiently with my stock enquiries.  Not to mention the fabric was rolled perfectly on a cardboard tube (so no annoying creases!) and delivered the next day, just in time for class.





The great thing about this fabric is it's geometrical print which makes it easy to cut a straight line following the pattern.  I decided that I wanted the bottom of the curtain to end through the centre of each diamond shape (horizontal black line).  I therefore cut 20cm below the black line and pressed the seam allowance under by 10 cm then 10cm again. For the side hems I was advised to turn under 4cm and then 4cm again. Luckily this landed perfectly on the vertical black line.

As there was a lot of material it took me some time to accurately press all the seams in place, in the region of an hour per curtain.

Next, after deciding to use lead weights, I made eight fabric pouches on the sewing machine and finished the open seam by hand.

Then it was time to hand stitch the curtain seams:

1.  Place two pins where the hem and side hem overlap on each side of the curtain.

2.  Unfold the hem and side hem.

3.  Fold the fabric through the pins.

4.  Place a covered lead weight under the fold of fabric 2.5cm in from the hem and side hem on each side.  Secure them in the same way you would secure a button. 

5.  Re-fold the fabric along the creases previously made.  Press.

6.  Ladder stitch the mitred corners.

7.  Blind hem stitch the hem.

8.  Herringbone stitch the side seams.

9.  Approximately four hours later this is what you'll end up with:

I'm two down, two to go before I get to the lining and my machine can take over the hard work!

Cornish Leather - Part 2

I've been very quiet on this project for the last three months and very busy matching tartan!

I decided to start with stitching the skirt.  Once the front and front side pieces were joined (and the same for the back) the time consuming job of stitching the pleats followed.  There are 16 pleats in this skirt and the tartan pattern needed to match perfectly on each one.  This took a lot of effort and time but the effect is a professional finish and was achieved with a walking foot. 

Topstitched pleats

I began the bodice construction, again using a walking foot to help prevent the tartan from moving under the machine.  The process was simple until I came to attaching the collar which I am making in leather.  

Firstly I needed to cut my leather and to do this I made another copy of my collar and cuff pieces.  I just about managed to fit them on to my skin and secured them temporarily with clips and sticky tape.  I cut them with fabric scissors which worked wonderfully, probably because the leather is less than 1mm thick.  

I then deviated from the pattern's methods and made up the collar by stitching the collar and collar facing right sides together.  I layered and snipped the seam before turning right sides out.  I finger pressed the seam open and then finger pressed it shut from the right side of the leather.  I then basted the collar, facing side down, to the right side of the bodice.  Next I had to baste the wrong side neck facing to right side collar and then cut the neck opening.  To secure the stitching on the machine I used leather needles and a long stitch. Most importantly I went slowly as once the leather is pierced the needle holes will not close up. 

All that was left to do was grade the seams (I cut all layers to 1cm and then cut both leather layers a few millimetres shorter) and snip the curve.  I under stitched the neck opening to keep the facing in place.
Before under stitching the neck edge I tried a sample of my leather and tartan only to discover that the leather would not pass properly under the machine foot.  This problem hadn't occurred when stitching the collar together as the wrong sides are suede.  Ideally I needed a Teflon foot but I don't have one.  So I improvised as below:

Masking tape covers the neck facing to protect it from the silicone

Spraying the leather with silicone spray will help it glide under the presser foot

The silicone spray worked really well and the presser foot didn't mark the leather.  This is the finished collar:

The pins are there temporarily to encourage the leather to lie flat

I'm glad to say that leather isn't as difficult to sew with as the novice me assumed.  It's true that once you have pierced the leather the hole will remain and that can be daunting.  I tried to put that out of my mind and focused on making sure everything was tacked well and that I stitched slowly.  No disasters resulted and I am pleased with the appearance of the collar.

Now I am moving on to attaching the skirt and bodice and making up the sleeves with leather cuffs.  It's probably about time to get my matching buttons made as well!  So near yet so far...

'Kiss' cushion

Finally, FINALLY, I have completed this project!

I first featured my progress on this embroidery back in October 2012, see post 'Out with one project...'

I am incredibly slow at finishing projects because I have so many on the go at once but I didn't anticipate it would take me into 2014 to finish it.  I must have started it around end 2010! 

I love this embroidery design by Emily Peacock and I am delighted with how the finished embroidery looks. Just the 'Hug' cushion to go now then...!  

To construct the cushion cover I followed a really detailed two part tutorial by Nicole at Maven + Maison (http://www.mavenandmaison.com/.)

Materials needed

Here are the links:

http://www.mavenandmaison.com/2014/02/custom-throw-pillows-part-1-installing.html

http://www.mavenandmaison.com/2014/02/custom-throw-pillows-part-2-how-to-make.html

I made a few little tweaks (in italics).  Here is a brief outline of the process I followed:

Steps 7 to 8

1.       Wash, dry and iron all fabrics and trimmings (including embroidery – cold water);

2.       Apply lightweight iron on interfacing to wrong side of embroidery (it should measure design size + 1.5cm all around);

3.       Trim finished embroidery leaving a border of 1.5cm all around;

4.       Cut upholstery fabric to the same size;

5.       Over lock edges;

6.       Mark opening for zip which should be central;

7.       Insert one side of zip on upholstery fabric;

8.       Apply length of trim to the bottom edge of the embroidery and machine into position;

9.       Insert the other side of the zip on top of the trimmed edge making sure the zip is aligned correctly;

10.   Finish seams at either end of the zip;

11.   Apply length of trim to the top edge of the embroidery and machine into position;

12.   Pin and tack the three loose edges of the cover together and machine;

13.   Cut diagonally close to stitching at corners and over lock;

14.   Turn and insert cushion pad.

I would recommend following the tutorial at Maven + Maison if you are making any cushion cover with a trim; it's simple to follow, easily adaptable to your needs and has a professional finish with the concealed zip.

The cost of this project isn't for the faint hearted as you will see below; Having said that, I don't think it's worth scrimping and scraping on the upholstery fabric or the trim - the detail is what makes it!  Take it from me that if you spread the cost over a few wage packs it is a little easier to stomach.  And not forgetting this sells for a whopping £375 (http://www.notonthehighstreet.com/maisonami/product/kiss_tapestry_cushion).

Item	Supplier	Quantity	£
Kiss' tapestry kit, small	http://www.emilypeacock.com/	1 (bought with 'Hug' for discount)	50
27'' x 9'' feather cushion pad	http://www.thefeathercompany.com/	1	14
White Knightsbridge upholstery fabric	http://www.remnantkings.co.uk/	0.5m @ £12.90 per metre	6.45
White bobble fringe, large	http://www.deckchairstripes.com	1.75m @ sale price of £7.20 per metre (usually £9 per metre)	12.6
White YKK concealed zip, 22 inches	http://www.sewessential.co.uk	1	2.96
Thread and lightweight interfacing	Any haberdashery - already had
		TOTAL	86.01

It fits perfectly on my one seater!

Has anyone else made this embroidery into a cushion cover?  I'd love to see some photos!

Cornish Leather - Part 1

My latest project is a pattern I picked up at the Knitting and Stitching Show 2013, Harrogate, for the bargain price of 50p!

This pattern appealed to me with pleats as I was getting a little tired of commercial patterns lacking shape in the skirt.  The bodice is fitted with bust and waist darts and there is the added detail of  a collar, sleeves, cuffs, covered buttons and a belt.  I think it's a 1970s pattern from the style and awful shoes!   

When selecting fabric I wanted to get involved with the latest tartan trend and really fancied this silk dupion 

(http://www.harrington-fabric-and-lace.co.uk/images/6487/6487(31)-detail.jpg) as featured in Sew magazine (December 2013 issue).  

Unfortunately the cost of pleats at £42.05 per metre of fabric would be extortionate and well beyond my price range!  Despite my disappointment I was comforted that silk and tartan would be difficult to manage and achieve a well matched piece.  

Not to worry as I stumbled across a lovely 100% cotton tartan from Truro Fabrics (http://www.trurofabrics.com/cotton-fabrics/tartan-cotton/cornish-tartan-cotton-hunting.html).

It is a Cornish tartan - 'Hunting'.  I love the colours - green is my favourite, and I am visiting Cornwall this year for a two week holiday so perhaps I can wear the finished dress then.  To the touch the cotton is brushed and very soft; I think it will keep me warm!

Folding the fabric for pinning and cutting took much longer than usual due to the tartan check. Firstly I folded the fabric in the centre of the white line (it stood out the most) so that all pieces placed on the fold would have the same centre pattern.  

I then pinned through the two layers and matched the pattern at regular intervals whilst keeping the fabric lay flat.  When I was ready to arrange my pattern pieces I spent some time making sure the hem line of all skirt pieces ended at the same white line and similarly matched the bodice and sleeve.  

AA leather skin in black from Pittards, cost £23

I haven't cut the collar and cuffs as I have decided  to make these up in leather.  I contacted Pittards (http://www.pittards.com/) for a sample and then ordered a black leather skin (http://www.pittardsleather.co.uk/black-leather-skin/p111).  I am impressed with the quality (I opted for AA) and thinness, both of which are perfect for the delicate cuffs and collar. 

Now the materials have racked up a hefty sum and I don't want to have to start buying button covering machines and eyelet makers.  I heard there were companies providing these types of services and a little bit of Internet research led me to Button Covering Services (http://www.buttoncovering.co.uk/index.html). Look at their fabulous varieties:

I will be relying on their services for covering my buttons for the cuffs (tartan) and collar (leather) - I'm thinking covered back buttons would be most appropriate, has anyone used these on their dressmaking? 

They also insert eyelets - that's the belt sorted! If there gallery is anything to go by I am sure they will do a wonderful job.  

Speaking of the belt, I was amazed at the lack of belt buckles in on line haberdashery stores.  My search led me to Once Upon a Belt, a business that offers interchangeable belts and buckles.  

This 6cm buckle is perfect for my belt (http://www.onceuponabelt.com/belts-and-buckles-interchangeable/wide-leather-belt-6cm/60mm-buckles/silver-square-60mm-buckle.html).  

I will shortly begin sewing the tartan with a walking foot to ensure the fabric does not shift.  The pattern is very well drafted with pictures for every step so I'm really looking forward to getting on the machine. 

At the same time and before cutting my leather pieces I want to make them out of cotton first to check I am happy with the fit of the cuffs and the shape of the collar.  Something tells me this won't be a quick project!

Lace Dress

Happy New Year everyone!

Part of my resolution is to stop neglecting the blog as I have done these past few months.  The trouble is that I started making McCall's M6505, a challenge in many respects, which was the source of all my attention.

M6505 envelope

I was attracted to this pattern from the modern envelope which many of you will appreciate is all too unfamiliar.  Usually a stretch of the imagination is required...could I make that look nice in a modern, less garish fabric?...

So this project seemed ready made with the illustration in lace and my first 'Phoebe Couture' from McCall's. 

I cut the decorative edge off my fabric and used as the trim

It was familiar techniques executed in an unfamiliar way as opposed to a complex pattern which made this dress challenging. After all the dress only requires 3 pieces, the others are bindings and lining/underlining. 

Here's what I mean:

1. Single point darts sewn using French seams;
2. Double point darts stitched through underlining and back of dress to anchor the underlining to the dress;
3. Lace trim as neck edge, sleeve edge and hem.

And a few new techniques for me: 

1. Working with lace;
2. Working with BLACK lace and BLACK thread!  (Don't even think about making a mistake as unpicking is a big No!).
3. Satin armhole and back neck edge bindings.

The purple underlining shows through a little,
but not as much as I hoped.

The darts shape the dress into a lovely fit and it is generally loose fitting on the thighs so even pear shapes like me can get away with this one!  Even though this pattern can be difficult to follow the effort is worth it for a classic style and elegant effect in lace. 

And the cost?  Not too bad...

Item	Quantity	£
Lace	2.5 metres @ £8.95 per metre	22.36
Purple lining	3 metres @ £2.25 per metre	6.75
Zip		2.5
Thread	2 x £1.55 (black, purple)	3.1
TOTAL		£34.71

Jumpsuit - Part 2

My jumpsuit is complete!  I think it's the most flattering thing I have made so far and I am excited to wear it.

The pattern was time consuming to make with the construction itself only taking a couple of weeks.  This is the second invisible zip I have inserted and a tricky yet important one to get level, given the different fabric choices.  I am pleased that it appears entirely invisible.

More for my own benefit, should I attempt to make this again, here are the stages of construction:  

1. Draw, alter and finalise pattern using a sample of chosen material;
2. Cut pattern pieces;
3. Sew darts.  Press;
4. Sew side and inside leg seams.  Press;
5. Sew front seam up to zip opening.  Press;
6. Repeat steps 2 - 5 for the lining which is cut to finish at the knee;
7. Tack lining to pants, wrong side to wrong side;
8. Construct top in accordance with manufacturers instructions;
9. Sew top (keeping lining free) to pants, right side to right side;
10. Press seam up into top;
11. Slip stitch top lining to pants lining so that it encloses the seam;
12. Insert invisible zip;
13. Add hook and eye.  Slip stitch zip seam to lining;
14. Machine hem each leg - turn up 1 cm and press, then turn up 1.5cm.  Tack and machine stitch in place;
15. Finish with some swing tacks (See post 'Liberty print jacket - Part 4'), to secure the pants lining to the side seams of the pants. 

Despite buying extra fabric for a working sample and to line the pants, albeit only to the knee, my jumpsuit is the cheapest thing I've made so far:

Navy lightweight fabric 4m at £2.95 per metre £11.80 14'' invizible zip £0.60 from Discount Haberdashery  £0.60 Thread  2 x £1.55 per spool £3.10 Satin and matching lining Already had from Duchess dress £0 TOTAL £15.50

Here's one I made earlier...

Quite literally, this is a dress I made on a day's annual leave from work.  Although I didn't quite manage to finish it in one day, I have finally got round to completing it (it was beginning to gather dust)!

It is the same dress as English Rose from May 2012, that is McCall's M6027, except this is view D.

So having made it before I didn't find it too challenging, although the cap sleeves were a little tricky to get right.  I think it will make a nice addition to the work wardrobe for winter as it is made from a navy lightweight wool.